Gökçeada

Gökçeada

Just north of the entrance to the Dardanelles, rugged, sparsely populated Gökçeada (Heavenly Island) is one of only two inhabited Aegean islands belonging to Turkey.

Measuring 13km from north to south and just under 30km from east to west, it is by far the nation’s largest island. Gökçeada is a fascinating place, with some dramatic scenery packed into a small area, and a Greek feel to it throughout. It’s a great place to escape to after visiting Gallipoli.

Gökçeada - Sleeping & Eating

Gökçeada - Sleeping & Eating

The old fashioned ev pansiyonu (home pension), which has virtually died out elsewhere, is still alive and kicking on Gökçeada. 

It's not unusual for locals to approach and offer you a spare room in their house, for considerably less than the prices charged by pensions and hotels.

Gökçeada town

Restaurants are clustered around the main square.

Otel Taşkın (HOTEL)

(Phone: 887 3266, www.taskinotel.com, in Turkish; Zeytinli Caddesi 3; s/d TL30/60)

In the quiet backstreets southwest of the main square. Hotel Flood has a brown-tiled exterior (including a mosaic of a gület - a wooden yatch) and spacious, good-value rooms with TV, balcony and lots of light. Breakfast takes place in the front courtyard.

Gül Hanım Mantı evi  (Restaurant)

(Phone: 887 3773, Atatürk Caddesi 23; mains TL6)

The mantı steals the show, but moussaka and chicken and spinach are also recommended at this simple home-cooking eatery.


Asmalı konak birahanesi (Cafe-bar)

(Phone:887 2469; mains TL7)

At this femaile-friendly side-street bar, the menu includes calamari, köfte, meze and fish netted by the proprietor.

Meydani Cafe  (Patisserie)

(Phone:887 4420; Atatürk caddesi 35)

For excellent snacks and shop-made desserts, this big, airy cafe attracts a young crowd.


Kaleköy

Club Masi Hotel (Boutique Hotel)

(Phone: 887 4619; www.hotelmasi.com; Eski bademli; TL125/175)
Located above the Gökçeada-Kaleköy road, the country cousin of İstanbul's Hotel Masi has stylish,modern rooms with some of island's best views.

The terrace with its outdoor pool, jacuzzi, sun loungers and bar, gazes at kaleköy castle and the Agean.

Kalimerhaba Motel (Pension)

(Phone:887 3648; erayda@msn.com; Barbaros caddesi 28; s/d TL50/70)
On Kaleköy's water-front, Kalimerhaba has some of Gökçeada's smartest, cleanest budget rooms, entered from a big, light reception and vine-covered terrace.

Kaleköy - Gökçeada

Kaleköy - Gökçeada

Although the views are dented by the presence of the military, the Gökçeada Resort Hotel and a large yatch marina, Kaleköy (formerly Kastro) exudes an infectious seaside contentment.

Above the tiny public beach and rocks are a hillside old quarter, a lovely whitewashed former Greek church and the remains of an Ottoman-era castle.

The coastline between Kaleköy and Kuzulimanı forms a Sualtı milli parkı (National marine park)

Greek villages - Gökçeada

Greek villages - Gökçeada

Heading west from Gökçeada town, you'll pass Zeytinli (Aya theodoros) after 3km, Tepeköy (Agridia), another 7km on, and Dereköy (Shinudy), another 5 km west.

All were built on hillsides overlooking the island's central valley to avoid pirate raids.

Adatepe, near Kucukkuyu

Adatepe, near Kucukkuyu

This attractive old village on the forest slopes of Kazdagi -Mount Ida of Antiquity- forms a pleasant contrast to the overcrowded coast of the Gulf of Edremit.

A donkey path paved with stones leads up to village through olive graves. Near the village entrance, the Altar of Zeus provides a fine panorama.

The neighbouring villages of Yesilyurt and Kucuk cetmi are equally picturesque.

Basdegirmen canyon - Adatepe

How to get there: 4 km from Kucukkuyu, turnoff marked "Zeus Altari"

Gallipoli war memorials, near Eceabat

Gallipoli war memorials, near Eceabat

The battlefields of Gallipoli were the scene of the bloodiest campaigns of World War L scores of war cometeries and monuments, both Allied and Turkish, have been maintained within a singularly evocative memorial park.

This covers a wild and beautiful country---the largest strech of Aegean coast to remain wholly undeveloped.

Highlights include the Anzac Cove, the site of an Australian-New Zeland landing in 1915, and Chunuk Hill, where the trenches of opposing forces lie within a few metres of each other.

How to get to Gallipoli war memorials: The road to the (more intereting) northern sector of the park branches off 3km N of Eceabat. A full tour-over Anafartalar-Kabatepe-Alcitepe-Seddulbahir-Kilitbahir covers about 80km.